"Just send me your design" is what every factory says. What they actually need is more specific: a tech pack. Without it, you'll go through 4-6 sample iterations instead of 1-2, costing weeks and hundreds of dollars per iteration.

What is a tech pack — and what it isn't

A tech pack is a structured document containing all the technical specifications a factory needs to produce your handbag without asking questions. It's not a design portfolio; it's a manufacturing brief.

A complete handbag tech pack contains 8 sections:

1. Cover page

  • Product name and SKU
  • Brand name and contact
  • Date and version number
  • Designer/owner signature
  • Production stage (initial, revised, approved-for-production)

2. Flat sketches (front/back/side/interior)

Black and white line drawings showing:

  • Front view with all visible details
  • Back view with closure mechanism
  • Side view showing depth and gussets
  • Bottom view showing feet/base reinforcement
  • Interior view showing pockets and lining details
  • Strap/handle details (separate drawing)

Hand drawings are acceptable for first iteration; CAD drawings (Illustrator) are preferred for production. Factories struggle most with proportion ambiguity — number all measurements.

3. Dimension specifications

DimensionMeasurementTolerance
Width (top)35 cm± 0.5 cm
Height28 cm± 0.5 cm
Depth (gusset)12 cm± 0.3 cm
Handle drop22 cm± 1 cm
Strap drop (adjustable)45-60 cm± 1 cm

Specify tolerance — without it, factories will use industry standard (±1-2 cm) which can mean your "carefully designed proportions" come out wrong.

4. Bill of Materials (BOM)

Every component listed:

  • Outer material: "Premium soft-touch PU, 1.2mm thickness, woven backing, color: Pantone 17-1230 TPX (Mocha Mousse)"
  • Lining: "100% polyester, 100gsm, color: matching outer"
  • Interior pocket fabric: "Same as lining"
  • Thread: "Bonded polyester #20, color: tone-on-tone with outer"
  • Reinforcement boards: "1.5mm cardboard, full bottom + side panels"
  • Hardware: Each item with material, finish, dimensions, supplier preference
  • Zipper: "SBS or YKK #5, length: 25cm, color: matching outer"
  • Brand label: "Woven Damask, 4 × 1.5 cm, sewn inside top of front pocket"

5. Construction details

  • Stitch density: "10 stitches per 3 cm minimum"
  • Edge finishing: "Edge paint, 4 coats, color: tone-on-tone"
  • Reinforcement points: Specify where bartack stitching is required (handle attachments, strap rings, gusset corners)
  • Lining attachment: "Stitched-in, fully bartacked at seams"
  • Bottom feet: "4 metal feet, antique brass, riveted not glued"

6. Hardware specifications

For each piece of hardware:

  • Type and function (D-ring, magnetic snap, turn lock, etc.)
  • Material (brass, zinc alloy, stainless steel)
  • Finish (brushed antique brass, gold plated, gunmetal, etc.)
  • Dimensions
  • Quantity per bag
  • Reference photo or sketch

7. Labeling and packaging

  • Interior brand label: dimensions, attachment location, material
  • Country of origin label: required wording per destination market
  • Care label: material content, washing instructions
  • Hangtag: design, material, attachment method
  • Dust bag: material, dimensions, branding
  • Polybag: branded or plain, gauge
  • Carton: dimensions, master pack quantity, labeling requirements

8. Quality requirements

  • AQL inspection level (typically AQL 2.5 major, 4.0 minor)
  • Material weight test (digital caliper measurement, tolerance)
  • Hardware finish requirement (no tarnishing, no protruding edges)
  • Stress points (handle attachment must hold 5 kg pull without deformation)

The eight things new brand owners typically miss

  1. Tolerance ranges. Without specified tolerances, factories use looser industry defaults.
  2. Edge paint coats. Default is 1-2 coats (cheap). Specify 3-4 coats for premium quality.
  3. Lining attachment method. Glued (cheap) vs stitched-in (premium) — huge quality difference.
  4. Reinforcement boards. Without specification, factories use thinner cardboard (cheaper, less structure).
  5. Thread weight and color. Specifying #20 vs #30 matters for stitch appearance.
  6. Bartack stitching points. Without specification, factories minimize bartacks (looks cleaner but less durable).
  7. Specific Pantone color reference. "Light brown" can mean 50 different shades; Pantone TPX code removes ambiguity.
  8. Country of origin label wording. Different markets require different wording — "Made in China" / "Hecho en China" / "Made in P.R.C." etc.

Tech pack tools

  • Adobe Illustrator — industry standard for flat sketches and tech sheets. Steep learning curve.
  • Procreate (iPad) — surprisingly capable for tech sketches.
  • Templates from sewport.com, contractoryclothing.com — free and paid handbag tech pack templates.
  • Hire a freelance handbag tech pack designer — $200-$600 on Fiverr/Upwork. Worth it for first product.

Approval workflow with the factory

  1. Submit tech pack v1 → factory feedback (typically 2-3 day turnaround)
  2. Revise to v2 → factory confirms feasibility, quotes price and MOQ
  3. Approve v2 → factory makes first sample (7-15 days)
  4. Receive sample → measure against tech pack, mark deviations
  5. Revisions to v3 if needed → second sample
  6. Approve final sample (often called "golden sample") → bulk production begins

A well-prepared tech pack means 1-2 sample iterations. A vague tech pack means 4-6 iterations.